150W UFO LED High Bay Light Review
A 150W UFO LED high bay light with 22,500 lumens, an IP65 rating, a plug-in option and a safety cable. Here's what it's like installed in a shed.
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The first thing I did was hold it next to the 60 watt light already on in the room. No contest. You can see me perfectly, and then the 150W UFO LED high bay light comes on and it’s too bright. It’s very, very, very bright. And that’s pretty cool.
Quick Verdict
I had a 60 watt light sitting right in front of me and this thing washed it out completely. It’s too bright. It’s very, very, very bright, and in my little shed there’s only one light I need now. The catch: go the plug-in route and you give up the dimming.
Buy if you:
- Light a shed, garage or workshop and want it done with one fixture
- Don’t want to touch your electrical panel and would rather use the included plug
- Have a damp or leaky space where an IP65 fixture matters
- Already have a ceiling hook or cable system to hang from
Skip if you:
- Want dimming without hardwiring. Use the plug and it’s full 22,500 lumens or nothing
- Need a soft, warm room light. At 5000K this is daylight and it’s unforgiving
- Are trying to keep a small space cool. This fixture throws off real heat
| Power | 150 W |
|---|---|
| Light output | 22,500 lumens (~150 lm/W) |
| Color temperature | 5000K daylight, CRI >80 |
| LED chips | 240 units |
| Protection | IP65 waterproof, IK08 impact |
| Dimming | 0-10V (hardwired only) |
| Warranty | 5 years |
The 150W UFO LED High Bay Light Explained
22,500 lumens out of a single fixture. The listing calls it equivalent to a 400 watt metal halide, and standing in front of it, that tracks. This is the light I’m putting in my shed, and it’s the only one I need in there.
UFO High Bays, and Where This One Sits
UFO high bays are a commodity category: same round aluminum shell, same downward throw, same metal-halide-replacement pitch from a dozen brands. What actually separates this one is the ETL listing, the IP65 rating, and the fact that it ships with a plug already attached.
Most of them in this category are built to replace HID and HPS fixtures, and that’s the pitch here too: 150 watts doing the work of a 400W metal halide, with the brand claiming up to 80% off the electricity bill. What separates this one from the pile is that it ships ETL listed, IP65 rated, and with a plug already on it. That last part is the whole reason I was willing to hang it myself.
All Metal, and Really, Really, Really Solid
All aluminum: housing, substrate, heat fins, heavy and built to last, which is why the mounting hardware matters so much. Housing, substrate, heat fins, all of it aluminum, and it feels it in your hands. It’s heavy, and that’s part of why the mounting hardware matters so much.
I love the fact also that the electrical component up top is fully encased and properly built. No exposed cheap plastic gland, no loose driver box rattling around. With the IP65 rating, water isn’t an issue, whatever. My shed can get wet in a hard rain and I’m not worried about it. That’s the exact reason I picked this for that space.
The LED array is 240 chips at 5000K. That’s a daylight white, not warm, so every corner of a shed reads flat and clear. Nowhere to hide a dropped screw. And if you’re cold, definitely this thing is going to give you some heat.
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The Hook Is Super Smart
The mount takes about a minute: drop the included twist-lock hook onto whatever’s already on your ceiling, cable system, eye bolt, existing hook, rotate it until it locks, and you’re done. No drilling into the fixture, no new hardware required if you have any anchor point at all.
Then there’s the security piece so it doesn’t slip out. Whatever I hook into it gets secured right there and it isn’t coming loose.
But because this is still heavy and it’s going on a ceiling, they even provide you with a safety cable. The cable is bolted right down to the light body, and the idea is you attach the other end to something else. Not the same hook, obviously. Because if my hook fails, I’ve got that cable there to catch the light from falling. Really well thought out. That’s the kind of detail plenty of fixtures at this size skip entirely.
For my install I went with the plug. There’s an outlet cable that comes with it, which is really, really cool, so it’s either or: use the plug, or wire it straight into your electrical from those cables. I’m running mine off a kind of makeshift light switch in the shed, a power bar. Perfectly what I wanted.
Plug It In and You Lose the Dimmer
Dimming locked behind hardwiring: plug in and you get full 22,500 lumens or nothing; hardwire and you unlock 0-10V control. I was afraid of the electrical side, I didn’t want to have to install it into a circuit, so I chose the plug. Which means I can’t dim it and I can’t put it on a proper wall switch.
And as soon as I turn it on, it literally is so bright and it just stays on. Full 22,500 lumens, no in-between. If you’re looking to dim, you need to put it into your system, right? There’s no version of this where you get both the convenience and the control.
Ownership After the Install
No bulbs, ballasts, or consumables to replace, sealed driver, long-life LEDs, 5-year warranty; only the aluminum fins need occasional dusting. No bulb, no ballast, no consumable. Really, really nice LEDs, very long life, and the driver is sealed inside that encased electrical housing.
The aluminum fins are the only thing I’d keep an eye on. That’s the heat management, and in a dusty shed or garage they’re going to load up eventually. A wipe when you’re already up a ladder handles it. Warranty is 5 years, and returns go through the standard 30-day Amazon window.
Before You Hang One
Hardwiring or plug: choose first because it determines dimming access, plug users get no dimmer, hardwired installs unlock 0-10V control. If a dimmer matters to you, budget for hardwiring and a 0-10V control. If it doesn’t, the included plug makes this a one-person job.
Second thing: have your hanging point sorted before the box arrives. The twist-on hook needs something to grab, plus a separate anchor for the safety cable. Two points, not one.
And be realistic about the output. In a small shed, 22,500 lumens at 5000K is more than you need for comfort, and I’d still take it. In a bigger garage or workshop it’s about right for a single fixture. If you’re lighting a low-ceiling room where you also want to relax, this is the wrong tool.
What we’d improve
Two things the next version could fix without much effort:
- Dimming is locked behind hardwiring, an inline dimmer on the supplied plug cord would let plug-in users control brightness instead of choosing between full blast and off.
- No second anchor point supplied for the safety cable, the cable is bolted to the fixture, but you’re on your own for the ceiling-side hardware. A basic eye bolt in the box would close that loop.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can it run on a standard household circuit?
Yes. It’s rated AC 100-277V, so a normal 120V outlet works, which is what the included plug cord is for. Bigger commercial installs can run it at 277V hardwired.
How high should it be mounted?
Higher is better with this one. It’s a suspended high bay throwing 22,500 lumens straight down, so a low ceiling puts a very intense hot spot directly under it. In a shed or garage, get it as close to the ceiling as your hook allows.
Does IP65 mean I can use it fully outdoors?
IP65 covers dust and water jets, so it handles a damp shed, a leaky roof or a covered outdoor area fine. The listing positions it as an indoor commercial fixture, so treat exposed, fully open-sky mounting as beyond what it’s sold for.
How many do I need for a two-car garage?
One will light it, two will light it evenly. Since this replaces a 400W metal halide on its own, a single unit centered gives you plenty of light but leaves the far corners dimmer. Two spaced across the bay kills the shadows.
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One fixture, one outlet, one plug, the shed is done. That’s the whole pitch, and at 22,500 lumens off a standard 120V circuit, it delivers it completely.
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150W UFO LED High Bay Light
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